You will see combinations of numbers like 7x35, 8x42, 12x50 or 8-24x50 and many more. The numbers to the left of the "x" always refer to how much magnification the Optical product has. The number to the right of the "x" indicate how big the lens is at the bottom of the product (this is called the objective lens). So, 7x35 means this product or magnifies objects so they appear 7 times closer. This Optical product also has a 35 mm diameter "objective lens". A 12x50 binocular magnifies objects so they appear 12 times closer and has an "objective lens" 50 mm in diameter. The 8-24x50 binocular is a zoom model because you can change the magnification from 7 times to 15 times. This binocular has a 35 mm "objective lens". The 30-90x100 spotting scope is a zoom model that you can change the magnification from 30 times to 90 times. This spotting scope has a 100 mm "objective lens". The 3-9x40 rifle scope is also a zoom model that you can change the magnification from 3 times to 9 times. And it’s objective lens is 40 mm.

No. NEVER modify your scope. It could be dangerous and would void your warranty. Please refer to the manual, which states: "This warranty does not include damage caused by abuse, unauthorized repair or modification of any kind".

For your convenience, you may purchase Visionking products & accessories from the Online Shop Page. And if you want purchase from a local store, Please contact us at szvisionking@gmail.com, we will tell you how to contact our distributors in you location.

Some types of objects (e.g., nebulae and galaxies) are best observed in a dark-sky environment, although even many of these are clearly observable through small telescopes in the city. The Moon and planets, by contrast, can be studied about equally well from the city or country. The basic rule is that while observations made outside the city generally reveal more detail, particularly in deep space, there are still a great many objects within the grasp of a small telescope in urban areas.

With proper care, your scope should last you a lifetime. When cleaning the lenses, reasonable precautions are necessary. Dry dirt and dust can be removed by air blast or with a soft brush. Fingerprints and lubricants can be wiped off with an eyeglass tissue or a cotton swab and a mild soap solution. Use the lens covers supplied with your scope whenever convenient.

If we have raised your interest in Scope, and you would like further information or even arrange a personal discussion, please contact our sales team under the details listed on the Contact Us page. We have sales representatives looking after all markets around the globe, and would welcome the opportunity to assist you with your needs.

 

You will want a binocular with magnification appropriate to how you plan to use your binoculars. So, think about the demands of your hobby before you select a pair of binoculars. How much detail do you need to see? Will you use your binoculars to view things close up or far away? Will you be able to prop your arms on something for support while using your binoculars? Do I want a small binocular that I can take anywhere?

The most popular binoculars are those with lower magnifications (as with 8x binoculars). These binoculars have wider fields of view and are easier to hold steady than the binoculars with higher magnifications. A wider field of view is important when trying to follow fast-moving action like game on the move, warblers on the wing, or athletes at a fast-pace sporting event.
Higher magnifications (as with 10x binoculars) will give you more detail, but are more difficult to hold steady than binoculars with lower magnification. Binoculars with higher magnification also have narrower fields of view. While many people choose to use 10x binoculars, they are deciding that image size and detail is of greater importance to them.

Our left eye and right eye can be different in their vision and focusing capability. Therefore, to use binoculars properly, we must compensate for such a difference, and centre-focusing binoculars have an adjustment mechanism to achieve this. You can find that almost all the binoculars listed in our store have one eyepiece (usually the one on the right-hand side) which is independently adjustable with a marked scale.
To adjust binoculars, first, use a lens cover or your hand to cover the right objective lens which is on the same side as the adjustable eyepiece (note: better to keep both eyes open to avoid distortion by squinting). Look through the binoculars and use the central focusing mechanism to focus on a distant object until it is sharp and clear.
Second, transfer the lens cover to the other lens on the left, again with both eyes open, but this time adjust the focus on the same object using the adjustable eyepiece only, until it is clear. Your binoculars are now properly focused for your use. Adjust the distance between the two eyepieces so that they in the centre of your eyes (i.e., when the two cycles merge into one). You can now use the central focusing mechanism to focus on objects at different distances, but you should keep the adjustable eyepiece at the same focus setting unless it is accidentally moved or the binoculars have been used by someone else.

Your eye is uniquely designed to gather more or less light as conditions change, but your binoculars are not. Since the light gathering ability of a binocular is fixed, it is important to select a model that best meets your eyes need for light as viewing conditions grow darker.
The exit pupil is the magnified image in the eyepiece as it leaves the binocular to enter your eye. It is an indicator of how well you will see an image through your binoculars on a bright day, at twilight or at night. Almost all binoculars gather more light than is needed by your eye for viewing in bright conditions. For the best viewing at twilight, you’ll want a binocular with a minimum exit pupil of 4mm.

An uncoated optical glass lens or prism reflects about 10% of the light incident on one of its surfaces, thus allowing only about 90% of the light to pass through. Nowadays most binocular lenses are coated with invisible coverings that work to improve the amount of light transmitted from the front lens to the eyepiece. Standard full coatings can reduce the level of light reflection to about 4% or lower; and more sophisticated multi-coatings can ensure 99% or more light transmission through the lens and prism.

Use common sense in the care and maintenance of your binoculars. Always attempt to blow off any visible dust or dirt from the binocular lenses before brushing or rubbing anything on the glass of your binocular. Next, use a lens cleaning tool like a Lens Pen or lens cleaning tissue to gently wipe off any remaining marks or spots from the lens of the binocular.
Remove stubborn things like dried water spots from the lens of a binocular by lightly fogging the binocular lens with your breath. If your waterproof binoculars are badly soiled, you can even clean them by placing them under lightly running water.

Binoculars are used outside in all kinds of weather. If you expect that you will be using your binoculars in rainy, wet weather (or if you use them around water), consider a pair of waterproof binoculars. You´ll pay a bit more for this feature, but you´ll also be able to use these binoculars without fear of repairing or replacing them just because they got wet.
Waterproof binoculars are literally submersible and any water damage would be handled under the manufacturers warranty for the binocular.

Many models of binoculars will allow you to view in comfort while wearing eyeglasses or sunglasses. These binoculars have been designed to provide you with longer eye relief.
Eye relief refers to the distance images are projected from the ocular lens to their focal point and can vary from 5mm to 23mm. If you want to use your binoculars with eyeglasses or sunglasses, look for binoculars that offer at least 15mm of eye relief.

Binoculars with centre focus system use one knob in the middle of the binoculars to move both lenses for fine focusing precision. This allows you to follow the action and switch from one object to another quickly. Binoculars with centre focus normally have one eyepiece (often the one on the right-hand side) which is independently adjustable to accommodate any difference between the two eyes.

Buy the best quality binoculars you can afford. This will allow you to spend the greatest possible time with your binoculars pressed to your eyes. You´ve probably heard the old statement about fishing that says "to catch fish, you need to have your line in the water". Well, you won´t see more detail unless that binocular is at your eyes. Poor quality binoculars usually spend a lot of time just dangling from the neck.

Choosing a right pair of binoculars would very much depend on your main purpose of use. Here are some examples:
If you are looking for a handy pair of binoculars to carry around easily in your handbag or in the pocket, and to use it in numerous occasions such as stadium sports, indoor or outdoor concerts/plays, travel and birding, and you also want to keep the cost down, you may choose a compact model such as 8x21, 10x25 or 7X28 compact binoculars. Such a model has all the functions required for these purposes and they are light in weight. These products have a unique feature with new optical coating technology which greatly reduces light reflection over a wider spectrum and increases image sharpness.

Most Visionking binoculars are fitted with rubber eyecups that can be 'rolled down' for improved field of view with glasses.

 

With proper care, your scope should last you a lifetime. When cleaning the lenses, reasonable precautions are necessary. Dry dirt and dust can be removed by air blast or with a soft brush. Fingerprints and lubricants can be wiped off with an eyeglass tissue or a cotton swab and a mild soap solution. Use the lens covers supplied with your scope whenever convenient.

None, with proper care and mounting, your scope should last a lifetime. Due to the unique internal seals and special lubricants your scope can maintain a dry gas atmosphere to prevent fogging of the lenses in any conditions. No lubricants or solvents are required to preserve mechanical function.

As convenient as vehicle storage may be, it can also be detrimental to your scope. Closed vehicles retain very high levels of heat. This intense heat could adversely affect the lubricants and sealants in your scope. Another danger comes from the constant vibration of a traveling vehicle as it can loosen your mounts and affect the zero point of your rifle.

The magnification depends on the shooting you will be doing. Generally, scopes offer magnification from 3X to 10X, either fixed or variable magnification (variable scopes being adjustable to various magnifications). For close-range shooting, use a 3X to 4X power scope. Higher magnification at close range will zoom in on too small an area and make it especially difficult to focus on a moving target. A 9X or 10X magnification is effective up to and beyond 300 yards and offers sufficient magnification for all but the most extreme hunting scenarios.

Variable magnification scopes are more versatile, naturally, but fixed magnification scopes can be marginally more reliable and also preclude the possibility that you might find yourself in the field adjusted to the wrong magnification. Nonetheless, most hunters prefer a variable magnification scope because it allows them to adjust between various distances and lighting conditions with relative ease. The most common variable magnification scopes are 3X to 9X, which will take a hunter from extreme close range out to the effective range of most hunts. If you are an excellent shooter and expect to be taking shots at game or targets beyond 500 yards, consider a 12X scope, but for most hunters, a 3X to 9X combination scope will get the job done.

You can boresight the rifle yourself with a laser boresighter, but almost always the scope will be boresighted for you when it is mounted on the rifle. All that remains is to take the gun to the range and sight it in. Start at 25 yards, making sure the gun is zeroed, using the windage knobs on the scope to make adjustments as necessary. Move out to greater distances after you have sighted in at 25 yards, and adjust the scope until you are comfortable with its feel and alignment.

Objective size is the size of the front lens of the scope. A larger objective allows more light into the scope, which can help hunter see better at dawn and dusk, as well as help the hunter see into shaded or overgrown areas. A smaller objective sits lower on the rifle, making the balance easier and the sighting in more straightforward. Objectives for most hunting rifles fall in the range of 25 mm to 50 mm.

Spring-Piston airguns generate heavy recoil and vibration in both the forward and rearward directions. Most rimfire and centerfire riflescopes are made to withstand only the rearward recoil of these types of rifles.

Airgun scopes are made to withstand heavy bi-direction recoil and vibration. They typically also have parallax adjustment that allows closer focus. Typically these adjustments will allow focusing down to 10 yards. Recoil is typically not a problem with pneumatic airguns.

Contrary to what some people say, tube size is important, at least as far as riflescopes are concerned.

Tube size is the diameter of the main body of the rifle scope, and it's a very important measurement. The American standard is a 1 - inch tube; the European standard is a 30mm tube. You need to know which your scope is, so that you can purchase the correct ring size to mount it to your rifle.

Speaking objectively, some scopes have an adjustable objective. This allows you to focus better at varied ranges, and requires adjustment (depending on how far your target is from your scope). This can help make some lower-priced variable scopes more dependable as far as point-of-impact goes, but again it usually means that a higher mount is required, which can make the rifle top-heavy.

Adjustable objectives are useful mainly for long-distance and/or precision shooting. So, if you are just going hunting, you probably won't need a variable. However, the choice it up to you.

At first glance, a larger objective (or forward lens of a scope) seems to make sense. After all, larger objectives gather more light, which in turn makes for a brighter view—especially in low-light conditions. Yet, many experienced shooters object to super-size objectives, claiming those extra millimeters are meaningless.

When all is said and done, 40mm seems to be as big as you want to go. At dusk or daybreak, any good scope will gather enough light to allow you to sight into dark, brushy areas and see much more detail than you can see with the naked eye. What's more, larger objectives have some drawbacks (because the line of sight is higher, the scope must be mounted higher on the gun—this makes the gun top-heavy, more difficult to sight and tougher to handle).

When it comes to power ranges, most experts agree that the very lowest they would want on a hunting scope is 4x. Why? Because anything higher than that will narrow your view too much for close shots and/or shots involving moving game.

For zooming in on far game at reasonable ranges, 9x is usually plenty high. You might want a higher magnification in some cases, but that depends on the type of terrain you hunt and how far the longest shot may be. You should keep in mind that 12x is probably way too much for most realistic hunting situations. Besides, the higher the magnification, the shakier the movement of the crosshairs on your target. In the end, however, you are the best judge of what you need in a riflescope.

Although it was developed for snipers, the mil in mil dot reticle does not stand for military. It is short for a unit of measure known as a Milliradian (who may or may not have been a Roman Emperor).

If you look along the lines of a plain reticle, you'll see small dots placed at precise distances from one another. These tiny dots allow you to measure angle downrange while looking through the scope. The mil unit of angular measurement is used because a mil is smaller than a degree of an angle. Just so you know, there are 6,400 mils (as opposed to 360 degrees) in a full circle.

If you are using two-piece bases, there is a front and rear and they are not usually interchangeable. If you have a Ruger rifle, the bases are machined right into the receiver and you can skip down to scope mounting. A few manufacturers recommend that you torque the screws to an inch pound setting, but normally all you need do is make them tight. Be careful not to over tighten them because you can strip those teeny screws, especially if they are aluminum.

Install the rings:

1)       Do not put the rings on the scope and use the scope as a wrench—this can damage the scope. Either use a proper tool or the tool provided by the manufacturer of the rings for that purpose.

2)       Next, especially if you are using two-piece bases, you have to make sure the rings are true and parallel. They do make precision expensive tools, but you could make do by installing the bottom of the rings and then setting the scope in them. You should be able to see if the rings are true and parallel and then adjust them. If the rings are cocked, or not parallel, when you tighten the rings you will kink the scope tube and damage the scope.

3) Now, install the scope, clamping it in the rings.

A quality riflescope is the key to a successful day at the range or in the field. Riflescopes bring distant targets and surrounding objects up close and personal allowing safer, more accurate shooting. They gather and utilize available light making it possible to shoot in lower light conditions and allowing the hunter to hunt from dawn to dusk.

Pairing just the right riflescope with your gun and ammunition will help you get the most out of each and every shot. Selecting the correct scope to fit your needs involves a number of considerations from mechanics and construction, to image quality and magnification. Keep in mind when and where you shoot most often and choose a riflescope with features that best fit the requirements of your particular sport.

1) Mechanics
The inner workings of a scope have a direct affect on shooting accuracy. As adjustments are made during sight-in, the cam tube, which holds the reticle and lenses in place, moves inside the scope. To stay on target and produce a quality image, this tube must be strong enough to absorb the impact of heavy recoil during shooting and remain in place. When selecting your riflescope look for precision (positive) adjustments, point-of-impact consistency, reticle strength and waterproof, fogproof and shockproof durability. You'll also want to consider weight, bulk and ergonomics, which are especially important during long days in the field.

2) Image Quality
For optimum image quality, it is important that the optical system of a riflescope deliver as much light as possible to the eye of the shooter. The lighter or brighter the image, the sharper the resolution, and the clearer the shot. The quality of the glass, lens design and optical coatings all contribute to a riflescope's ability to manage light effectively. When selecting your scope, consider magnification, objective lens size, exit pupil, resolution, field of view and eye relief.

3) Magnification
Choose a riflescope with the magnification or power that is appropriate for your particular application.

a. Low power - (example: 1-4x24, 1.5-6x42) These riflescopes are ideal at close range and for shooting moving targets. They provide the most effective light management and produce a brighter sight picture and wider field of view-even in low-light conditions and thick brush.

b. Medium power - (example: 3-9x40, 2.5-10x32) Select these riflescopes for hunting big game at medium range.

c. High power - (example: 3-30x56, 10-40x56) These riflescopes are best for target shooting, when the target is motionless and for varmints and other small game.

 

Spotting scope is an optical instrument used to view distant objects primarily on land - therefore optimized for terrestrial observations. Most spotting scopes are look and work just like small telescopes with refractor, Maksutov, or catadioptric optical design.  Normally spotting scopes have 50mm to 80mm objective lens and magnification anywhere from 15x to 60x, but there are more powerful spotting scopes with higher magnification and larger objective lens to 90mm and up.

From the point of view of the design, a spotting scope and a telescope are not very different altogether.

Both are used for magnification and are constructed with an eyepiece lens and an objective lens. Both are used to be able to see long distance images clearly. Both the spotting scope and the telescope are designed in such a way that they can be mounted on tripods. However, this is where the differences arise.

The basic purpose of a spotting scope is to observe terrestrial targets, whereas that of a telescope is to study celestial objects. Spotting scopes are lighter to make them portable and are armed with rubber reinforcements. They also sport a more ergonomic design, as compared to telescopes, and are more rugged and durable. As compared to an astronomical telescope, a spotting scope has lesser magnification and a smaller aperture. However this enables the spotting scope to have a wider field of view.

Telescopes are optimized for being placed at one place and hence tend to be heavier than a spotting scope. A major difference between the two is that spotting scopes are designed to be mounted on generic camera tripods while telescopes require special mounts, which are quite expensive, to support them. The image produced by a telescope is always inverted and a spotting scope always produces a right side up image.

How to decide whether to use a telescope or a spotting scope? As mentioned earlier, a spotting scope is meant for terrestrial observations. Typically, when there is a need for high magnification, a spotting scope is chosen over a pair of binoculars. Due to the wider field of view that spotting scopes offer, as compared to telescope, they are better suited for observing moving targets. This makes them ideal for birding, hunting, surveillance etc. Spotting scopes are also used with guns for targeting. They can also be paired with a camera to shoot pictures of distant objects. In fact a spotting scope can also be used for star-gazing but will not provide as much clarity as a telescope would.

Astronomy telescopes are far better suited at observing stationary objects due to their narrower field of view. Also, due to their greater aperture and magnification than a spotting scope, they are suited for viewing objects at great distances such as stars, planets and the Moon. Although a telescope can be used to view terrestrial objects, it is not a recommended practice as not only is a telescope bulky but also produces an inverted image.

You cannot handhold a spotting scope due to its high magnification. It must be supported to steady it. You can get by at lower magnifications with a monopod or shoulder stock, but above 40x, you must use a tripod and the larger and heavier the scope, the larger and heavier the tripod should be. A car window mount is a viable option for a portable scope, though, if you are observing from a vehicle.

There is no need to buy a special tripod for a spotting scope. All spotting scopes are threaded like a camera and will fit on any standard camera/video tripod.

Yes. But you need to buy a camera adapter.

ED glass means Extra-low Dispersion. As you know, if you make a prism and pass light through it, it will break white light up into its component colors. The blue end of the spectrum is bent the most, and the red end is bent the least. The prism disperses or spreads out the colors that make up white light.

Dispersion is a simply a measure of how much the colors are spread out by the prism. A typical achromat is made of a low dispersion crown glass and a high dispersion flint glass. The recent advent of extra low dispersion materials, often called fluor-crowns, allows opticians to make two element lenses from a fluor-crown glass and a crown glass. So ED glass help correct chromatic aberrations, or optical color defects, caused when different light wavelengths do not converge at the same point after passing through optical glass. Calcium fluorite crystals were once used to correct this problem in telephoto lenses.

Before you buy, know how you want to use it, as well as the possible distance. By knowing exactly what application you want to use a spotting scope for, you can shop exclusively for the features you need, while preventing yourself from getting overburdened with the cost of extras. It is also important to note that many varieties of spotting scopes are camera adaptable, so you can photograph objects outside the range of your camera lens. These camera-mount scopes require specific mounting components; shopping for your model of camera is as important as shopping for the scope.

A coating on a spotting scope not only makes it perform better and deliver better images but also lengthens its lifespan. A coating on the lenses decreases the light reflection to a minimum thereby producing better images. The kind of coating depends on the quality of the spotting scope. A good spotting scope has lenses made of ED glass that eliminates all possibilities of chromatic aberrations. The coating can be of a single layer on the lenses or on all the external surfaces. The coating can also be multiple layered on the lenses or on the external surfaces.

The exit pupil refers to the size of the column of light that exits a spotting scope. The larger the exit pupil, the brighter the image. The higher the magnification on your spotting scope, the smaller the exit pupil and the dimmer the image that you see through your scope. To determine the size, divide the objective lens diameter by the power (a 15x45 model has an exit pupil, or useable light, of 3mm).

The distance a spotting scope can be held away from the eye and still present the full field of view. Extended or long eye relief reduces eyestrain and is ideal for eyeglass wearers.

Field of view of a Spotting scope is the side-to-side measurement of the circular viewing field or subject area. It is defined by the width in feet or meters of the area visible at 1000 yards or meters. A wide field of view is better for following fast-moving action or scanning for wildlife. Generally, the higher the magnification, the narrower the field of view.

Size and weight are not optical characteristics of a spotting scope, but if you spend a lot of time in the field hunting or birdwatching, you will appreciate a compact, light weight spotting scope that is easy to carry around.

For any high power observations (normally optical magnification 12x and up), we usually recommend a quality tripod to hold the spotting scopes steady!  Most if not all of the spotting scopes we offer come with a built-in 1/4"-20 thread tripod adapter that allows them to be mounted onto any standard camera tripod that we have plenty of.

6) Spotting Scopes - Spotting scope magnification (Power):

Spotting scopes are often referred to by two numbers separated by an "x". For example: 15-45x60 or 15-45x60mm. The first number is the power or magnification of the spotting scope. With a 15-45x60 variable power spotting scope, the object being viewed appears to be 15-45 times closer than you would see it with the unaided eye. For long range observations, in addition to power, make sure to look for larger objective lens so enough light is coming through to support highly magnified image.

The closest you can be to an object and maintain visual clarity. For birdwatching you normally want close focus. For target shooting and hunting close focus in normally less important.

The second number in the formula: (15-45x60)60 is the diameter of the objective or front lens. The larger the objective lens, the more light that enters the spotting scope, and the brighter the image.  For low light conditions (hunting, late night / early morning observations) a larger spotting scope will give you a brighter picture given that the quality and design of the scope is the same.

Most optical prisms are made from borosilicate (BK-7) glass or barium crown (BAK-4) glass. BAK-4 is higher quality glass yielding brighter images and high edge sharpness.

 

Night Vision Devices are electronically enhanced optical devices that enable us to see in near-total darkness.

The threshold of vision with an NVD can vary with different "generations", the quality of the devices, distance and the environment. A Generation-1 Night vision with 500x amplification will give a very useful image in the dimmest light of a scarcely visible new moon. From 100 feet, you can distinguish between kinds of animals, whether a human figure is familiar, male or female. While the screen images are not as sharp as a photograph, Night Vision Devices are astonishing in what they accomplish. System amplification of most second-generation Night Vision Devices is around 22,000 times!

The key difference between the night vision generations is the intensifier technology. Gen. I Night Vision devices use an intensifier tube that amplifies ambient light by accelerating electrons and striking a phosphor surface just like a Television. Generation II night vision devices add a micro-channel plate that multiplies the number of electrons before they impinge on the phosphor screen, thus increasing gain; Generation III Night Vision goggles, monoculars and scopes further add a Gallium Arsenide photocathode which creates significantly more photoelectrons than Gen II night vision devices. Generation IV Night Vision is now offered by ATN. Generation II and III night vision devices offer greater light amplification, they are definitely better than Generation I, but a price beyond the reach of most buyers. Modern Generation I Night Vision devices are high quality and provide light amplification adequate for most recreational activities camping, hiking, fishing, boating, and nature viewing, and for many professional uses such as surveillance, search and rescue, and property management.

Two reasons: 1) Night Visions Devices make possible a quality of seeing that is far superior to flashlights. They provide your eyes with a light amplification tool that gives you much more night vision sensitivity than many nocturnal animals. 2) See, without being seen. Think of the advantages of seeing without intruding when you are trying to find your way around an unlit campground. Property owners can observe nocturnal criminal activity. Hunters and nature lovers can observe animals without startling them. If you suspect a prowler is nearby, you can spot the "perpetrator" without alarming him and safely call the police.

1. Available light (energy) is collected by the objective lens and focused on the image intensifier.

2. Inside the intensifier a photocathode is "excited" by the light and converts the energy into electrons.

3. The electrons accelerate across an electrostatic field inside the intensifier and strike a phosphor screen (like a monochrome TV screen) which emits an image that you can see. This acceleration of electrons provides gain and enhances the image

Night vision optics are similar to video cameras. Instead of focusing the image on the film plane or CCD (video chip), the objective lens focuses the image on one end of a light intensifier tube. There it is turned into electrons, amplified, and accelerated past a field-forming electrode to a phosphor-covered screen where the image is inverted and focused by static electricity. The phosphors glow brightly where struck by electrons, the same principle by which fluorescent lights brighten a room. The observer looks at the screen through an optical eyepiece or eyepieces and sees the image.

Night air conditions frequently include fog and high humidity. NVD's can sustain damage from constant humidity or immersion. Avoid getting them wet, wipe them off with a soft dry towel after use, and store them in dry place without temperature extremes.

They have about 45x more light amplification and, as stated above, they produce about 20% better resolution. The great price difference between the two generations is hard for most consumers to justify, but it is a result of the addition of a porous, coated glass screen called a "microchannel plate". Under most circumstance, there is little practical difference in results between second-generation and first-generation units of equal quality.

No，NVD are primarily intended to make it possible for you to see in the dark, not to magnify distant objects or see objects far away.

No. Most of the devices contain highly light sensitive components. When exposed to sunlight, they might get damaged. Some devices are delicate enough to be damaged by bright streetlights, headlights, or even flashlights. The phosphor screen and the light intensifier tube are the units that suffer damage through exposure to intense light.

No. All devices for night vision are monochromatic. You see images in green color because thats what the phosphor screen glows with. Green is the color to which human eyes are the most sensitive

It will break! The phosphor screen and light intensifier tube are delicate parts that need to be handled with extreme care.

Yes. The image tubes of such devices show spots to some extent. This is one of the inbuilt characteristics of all night vision tools. However, the black spots should remain constant. They should not multiply or get bigger. There is a tolerance limit for these spots for which the devices are tested before being marketed.

Yes. The image tubes of such devices show spots to some extent. This is one of the inbuilt characteristics of all night vision tools. However, the black spots should remain constant. They should not multiply or get bigger. There is a tolerance limit for these spots for which the devices are tested before being marketed.

There are several different variables that play a role in how far you can see.

1) The amount of light available: When the moon is full and the stars are shining, you will be able to see wild animals as far as 180m away; half moon, only 130m away; only stars, only 80m away and a on a cloudy, overcast night, only 65m away.
But then, a major difference between an ordinary pair of binoculars and a night vision device is that a night vision device is not primarily intended to magnify objects you are looking at or look at objects far away, but to enable you to see in the dark; and they're good at that.

2) How big is the object you're trying to see? Obviously, watching an elephant at 100m is easy; watching a little duiker at the same distance is quite another matter.

3) The environment itself: Dense vegetation and trees soak up light, restricting the light available for your night vision device.

4) The quality of the device you have: As said above, quality comes at a price. The more you're willing to pay, the better the image you will see - no question about that.

The number one damage factor is using the device in bright light. Exposure will shorten the life span of a night vision device.

1)       Exposure to rain, fog, or even extremely high humidity may damage night vision devices. Built for use at night, they can withstand short exposure to dampness or high humidity conditions.

2)       Night Vision devices have delicate vacuum intensifier tubes that are sensitive to impact and should be handled carefully.

3)       Clean lenses the same way you would your camera. The lenses are optically coated and may be scratch if abrasive material is used or if dirt is rubbed into the glass. Usually there is no need to remove the lenses and clean inside.

4)       Storage for long periods is best in a cool dry place with the batteries removed.